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| project:nighthawk [2026/01/22 04:52] – NightHawk wikarai | project:nighthawk [2026/03/24 22:28] (current) – external edit A User Not Logged in | ||
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| | **Low (Scouting)** | 350mA | ~8.5 Hours | Passive (Minimal metal) | | | **Low (Scouting)** | 350mA | ~8.5 Hours | Passive (Minimal metal) | | ||
| | **High (Search)** | 1.5A | **~2.0 Hours** | **Heavy Heatsink Required** | | | **High (Search)** | 1.5A | **~2.0 Hours** | **Heavy Heatsink Required** | | ||
| + | | **Flash (Ext. Camera Trigger)** | 5.0A | N/A | **1-10ms @ ~17W** | | ||
| ===== The Shiny Bits (BOM - Custom Build) ===== | ===== The Shiny Bits (BOM - Custom Build) ===== | ||
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| If you prefer to find a pre-made nest for your electronics, | If you prefer to find a pre-made nest for your electronics, | ||
| - | ==== The " | + | ==== The " |
| Commonly sold as the **" | Commonly sold as the **" | ||
| * **The Good:** It already includes the **Collimating Lens** and a sliding head. | * **The Good:** It already includes the **Collimating Lens** and a sliding head. | ||
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| The LD06AJSA driver is a " | The LD06AJSA driver is a " | ||
| - | < | ||
| - | [ FINAL OPTIMIZED CIRCUIT: THE SHADOW-PIERCER ] | ||
| - | |||
| - | ( + ) Li-ion 18650 Battery | ||
| - | | ||
| - | | | ||
| - | +--------+----------+ | ||
| - | | | | ||
| - | | [SWITCH] | ||
| - | | | | ||
| - | | | ||
| - | | | ||
| - | | | ||
| - | +-------[VIN+] | ||
| - | | LED DRIVER | ||
| - | +-------[VIN-] | ||
| - | | | ||
| - | | | ||
| - | | | | | ||
| - | | | | | ||
| - | | ( A ) ( K ) | ||
| - | | [ OSRAM IR LED ] | ||
| - | | ( 850nm ) | ||
| - | | | | ||
| - | +----------------+ | ||
| - | </ | ||
| - | ==== Extra Feature: | + | == Optional |
| The current is set by the resistance between the **ISET** pin and **Ground**. On your board, this is currently handled by a tiny blue " | The current is set by the resistance between the **ISET** pin and **Ground**. On your board, this is currently handled by a tiny blue " | ||
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| * **Step 4 (The Knob):** Solder the other end of that resistor to the **Center Pin** of your 1k Potentiometer. Solder a wire from the **Left Pin** of the Potentiometer back to the **Ground (VIN-)** pad on the driver. | * **Step 4 (The Knob):** Solder the other end of that resistor to the **Center Pin** of your 1k Potentiometer. Solder a wire from the **Left Pin** of the Potentiometer back to the **Ground (VIN-)** pad on the driver. | ||
| - | **Why 1.2k?** The formula for this driver is $I = 1800/R. To hit exactly 1.5A, you need 1200 Ohms. | + | **Why 1.2k?** The formula for this driver is //I = 1800/R//. To hit exactly 1.5A, you need 1200 Ohms. |
| * **Knob at Max:** 1.2k (Safety) + 0 (Pot) = **1.5A (Turbo)** | * **Knob at Max:** 1.2k (Safety) + 0 (Pot) = **1.5A (Turbo)** | ||
| * **Knob at Min:** 1.2k (Safety) + 1.0k (Pot) = **~820mA (Scouting)** | * **Knob at Min:** 1.2k (Safety) + 1.0k (Pot) = **~820mA (Scouting)** | ||